TAFA: The Textile and Fiber Art List

Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Peru. Show all posts

Monday, April 11, 2011

TAFA Market Focus: Crossroads Trade

Palestinian Embroidered Pillow by Crossroads Trade


TAFA is having its first public event during the AQS Quilt Show in Paducah.  We are excited to introduce TAFA to the public at large and are hoping to raise funds for our new website.   We have a silent auction and raffle, both available to online participants and an exhibit and vendors.   These are ways in which you can donate to support our efforts.  This blog will feature the works and vendors in the next two weeks.  You can see all of the TAFA Market posts in one place by clicking on this link

Today's TAFA Market focus zooms in on:

Crossroads Trade



Otomi Embroidery (Mexico) from Crossroads Trade

Kate Harris is coming all the way from Massachusetts to be a vendor in our TAFA Market!  Her car will be loaded down with gorgeous textiles and treasures from around the world: molas, African embroideries, Wounaan baskets, Palestinian pillows and much more!  I have worked with ethnic textiles and crafts for over 20 years and Kate's selection and commitment to quality are among the best I have ever seen.  Extra bonus:  Crossroads Trade is committed to fair trade.  These products represent traditions and people who have honed skills over the centuries, many whom now live in precarious and dangerous parts of the world.  Embroidery, weaving and sewing allow communities to maintain the traditional structures of their communities without having to leave their homes for work in factories or meaningless labor.


Kuna Mola: Monkeys, Bananas and A Hammock from Crossroads Trade

I always find it interesting how simple and similar materials can generate such different results.  For example, the first image in this post is of a Palestinian embroidered pillow.  The following image is a South African embroidery, both using black cotton fabric as the background.  But, look at the results!  The Palestinians excel at cross stitch, boldly emphasizing negative and positive spaces.  The South African embroidery uses running stitches, almost calling pointillism into mind. 

South African Embroidery, "Cow", from Crossroads Trade

All of these cultural textiles are easily recognizable to those of us who are familiar with them.  We can easily point out which countries or communities they represent.  However, as with everything in life, styles also evolve.  For example, certain mola makers become famous world-wide for their individual techniques and themes.  And, contact with people like Kate has also inspired groups to adapt their traditional crafts to products which can be marketed worldwide.  We then end up seeing two kinds of product:  collectible pieces by artists within the communities and production pieces artisans who don't necessarily have the "muse".  This means that there are huge variations of prices within similar kinds of pieces.  One mola might be $35 while another might be $350.  Kate will have that range with her, both low and high ticket items.




Arpillera from Lima, Peru, Crossroads Trade

Many quilters and sewers like to use unfinished textiles or vintage remnants to incorporate into their own pieces.  A mola, for example, can be sewn into a quilt, a bag, a pillow, on to a jean jacket, or if you want to "go" Kuna, make a blouse for yourself, too!  (The Kuna women wear them on the front and back of their floral, puffy-sleeved blouses.)  Take a look at Crossroads Trade and if you see anything on the website that you would like Kate to bring, you can send her a message through her site or leave a comment here.  Kate is bringing mostly textiles, but she also has gorgeous Wounaan and Emberá baskets from Panama.



Wounaan and Emberá baskets from Panama, Crossroads Trade

I don't know about you, but I do know that I will have a hard time looking at Kate's things and not getting them all slobbered up with drool.  I'll have to wear a bib or something....    (Excuse the 4th grade humor....  just lost a bit of control!)  And, I am super excited to meet Kate.  We have talked once on the phone and I just know that the stories will be flying.  It will be a great time at our TAFA Market and I do hope that you can join us!


"Peace", Israeli Applique from Crossroads Trade




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Monday, June 15, 2009

A Pilgrimage to the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market


If I were to go anywhere in the world as a pilgrimage, my choice would be the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market. I can't think of another place that would be a Mecca of all my interests in culture, people and the wonderful things they make. Sure, there are many other folk art festivals that would be interesting, but this has to top them all! Every year I hope I can go and so far I haven't been able to afford the trip. You see, it's not only going there and experiencing the environment that would thrill me, but I also would want to buy, buy, buy!!!! Someday it will happen!

Meanwhile, you go. Go be my eyes and ears and report back about how much fun it was! Tell us all about the wonderful people you met and what treasures you bought. The Market will be loaded with all of the ingredients to make anyone clap with joy, dance with delight and participate to their heart's content. There will 140 artists present representing 41 countries! You can travel the world just by walking around! Workshops, ethnic foods, live music and cultural presentations combine to make this a world event in one of the most interesting cities of the world.

Here is a video from last year's market:



My biggest joy would be to interact with the artists and see them at work. The International Folk Art Market's website has a full listing of those who are scheduled to come with a bio of their work. I picked a sampling just to give you an idea of the wonderful diversity of both regions represented and the work they produce, although I have to admit that even though I love all craft forms, I do tend to gravitate towards the textiles. The photos and text belong to the Santa Fe International Folk Art's site and I am quoting a partial bio just to entice you over to their site. Click on the Artist's name to see their full page.


Peru
Artisan Committee of Centro Poblano de Chijnaya
Chijnaya Foundation
Embroidery
The Andean village of Chijnaya was born after a flood in 1963 devastated villages near Lake Titicaca. As part of the resettlement project, and through the influence of Peace Corps volunteers, the concept of having the children embroider scenes of daily life took hold. What emerged were “bordados” employing hand-dyed alpaca yarn embroideries soon captured world attention and on a ground of “bayeta” or hand-woven simple weave woolen cloth.



The Palestinian Territories
Sulafa Embroidery Shop/project of the United Nations Relief and Works Agency
Embroidery

The United Nations Relief and Works Agency runs a self-supporting embroidery program which employs over 500 refugee women in the Gaza Strip to produce articles to sell at the Sulafa Embroidery Shop, helping preserve valuable traditions and increasing family incomes.


Niger
Silver and Gemstone Jewelry

Moussa Albaka is from Niger, Africa, and as a metal-smith he designs gorgeous jewelry using sterling silver, Tuareg silver and semi-precious stones. His techniques include engraving intricate geometric designs, using decorative inlay, and a lost wax process.


Georgia
Georgian Textile Group
Embroidered, Woven and Felted
Textiles and Objects
Nino Kipshidze, founder and president of The Georgian Textile Group (GTG), has been involved in crafts since her studies at the Academy of Fine Arts. GTG is an association of artists, designers, researchers, art historians, and ethnographers working to revive and improve the quality of Georgian folk textile art and craft and to support artisans works and by creating an international market for their work.


Brazil
Tesoros Trading Company
Woodblock Prints and Chapbooks


José Borges, one of Latin America’s most celebrated folk artists, wields his knife and piece of wood in his humble workshop, attracting collectors and curators from around the world. Considered an unlettered folk poet, Jose has more than 200 cordel, or chapbook, titles to his name and is still writing.


Yuzhen Pan
China
Minority People Textile Folk Artists Cooperative of Southwest China
Weaving, Embroidery and Batik
Yuzhen’s family continues to farm in Guizhou while she lives part time in Beijing working in an embroidery workshop and selling Miao textile items at an open air market.

*****

As you can see, each artist comes with a story, a life-line that connects them to their region. It will surely be fascinating for anyone who can make it to the festival. But, I also think this is such a profoundly valuable opportunity for all of the participating artists. I have worked in multi-cultural groups for many years and remember how disturbing it was to me that each group has its own set of biases, misconceptions and stereotypes that can lead to racism and narrow-mindedness. This is not only about white people learning about the world and "helping" through their dollars, but instead, contact and interaction opens all people to a larger world filled with new opportunities. We all have the need to both give and receive, to teach and to learn, to share and to grow and this makes the world a safer, healthier and more dynamic place to live.

If you make it to the Market, please report back here and tell us how it went! Or, if you like to write, I would love to have your experiences documented in a post. Take lots of photos and share them with us! Someday I will make my pilgrimage, but until then, enjoy yours!

Visit the Santa Fé Convention and Visitors Bureau for travel info.

***

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Monday, December 15, 2008

Ethnic Nativities & Identity plus The Hyde Family

Zulu Beaded Doll Nativity
This set contains Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus in a manger,
made by Zulu women in a co-op in Kwa Zulu, Zululand in eastern South Africa.

Ethnic nativities offer an excellent opportunity to take a look at multiculturalism and the search for identity. Christianity's roots spring from the Bible, a text that historically and culturally belonged to the people of Israel. But, the New Testament, through Christ, made the Word available to all and in the last 2000 years, Christianity has indeed spread around the globe. Much of the initial work was done through missionaries, first through the Roman Catholic Church's participation in conquering the New World and in its alliance with traders in Africa and the Orient, then through Protestant missionaries who felt called to take the Word of God to the most remote regions of the world. The Industrial Revolution and consequent developments in communication (print, radio, television, and the internet) made it even easier for Christianity to achieve access into other cultures. (The reverse is also true as other religions and belief systems have made an impact on traditionally Christian turf.) Without addressing the pros and cons of this reality (ie. the cost in terms of lives lost, wars fought, or pros such as clinics and schools built in the name of Christ), the Nativity scene is recognized throughout the world, even where Christianity is not practiced.


The scene was created by an organization called GuguCrafters,
comprised of four Zimbabwean refugees living in Cape Town, South Africa.

A basic Nativity consists of the Baby Jesus, Mary and Joseph. The baby in the manger with two figures on either side is such a familiar icon that just the shapes are enough to inform the viewer about the narrative. For example, the soda images above without the baby might be angels or choir members. Their praying hands indicate some kind of piety, but having the baby in the box with it eliminates any confusion that this is anything but a Nativity scene. This set doesn't have any ethnic tags to it. Obviously, it is recycled, but soda pop crafts are also very popular in Vietnam and increasing in other countries, including here in the United States.

An ethnic tag means that the piece is easily recognized by its technique as originating from a specific country or people. Anyone familiar with that culture will recognize the craft because it is produced in abundant quantities. Similar pieces made by different artisans can be found in the markets of that country or in specialty stores and catalogs. Here are some examples:

Peruvian Retablo Nativity
This Nativity is a retablo (diorama) scene.
Retablos are shrinelike boxes with religious scenes inside,
an art form unique to Peru.
They have evolved from the portable altars
which the Spanish conquistadores brought with them in the 16th century.

India- Textile Stamps Nativity
This Nativity is made from hand-carved wood pieces in India.
Bread Dough Nativity (Masapan), Equador
Each piece of this Nativity scene was painstakingly hand-molded from bread dough and baked until very hard by descendants of one of the original families in Ecuador who began the tradition of giving these masapan gifts to neighbors approximately 150 years ago. This technique originated in Calderón, which is a pueblo just outside of Quito in the Andes Mountains.

Arpillera Nativity from Peru

This Nativity hanging from Peru is called an arpillera, which in Spanish means burlap or sackcloth. Talented women use fabrics of many colors and textures to make this scene. They individually designed and hand-stitched every little detail.

The Peace Corps, NGO's, church groups and tourism all had an impact on how traditional handicrafts in different countries increasingly looked to the Western market (USA, Canada and Europe) for support. The fair trade movement increasingly became better at standardizing the crafts with quality control guidelines, understanding market trends and using the internet and trade shows as outlets. Christmas is a huge niche as both ornaments and nativity scenes have an audience of collectors. So, the Jewish family morphed and became represented by the cultural tags of the artisan. Jesus was not only a Jew, but also a Zulu, a Navajo, a Mexican, and an Inuit.

Elaborate Cloth and Fur Nativity $250
This Nativity set is handcrafted in Mongolia by Tsegtsmaa.
She made by hand all of the figures and animals, even using a lathe to make the wood bodies.

Part of this does come from marketing, but erasing the Baby Jesus's cultural roots also reflects a level of self-imaging where cultural bridges can be made through a story. Missionaries found early on that in order to explain the concept of Jesus they first had to try to understand the culture they were trying to impact. How do you explain "your sins will be washed away and be pure as snow" to someone who has never seen winter? Try explaining a father giving his son as a sacrifice to cannibals... Anthropoligists, linguists and Victorian travelers had a hard enough time exchanging basic information on family structures, meaning of words, and dietary practices without having to make a whole religious philosophy understood. In time, sometimes through force, sometimes through genuine interest, certain symbols have become recognized in all of the continents and at least, in all major urban areas around the world. These symbols have become a part of the larger marketplace with or without the meanings attached to them. Or, religions have synchretized into something new. Christianity was largely shaped by European theologians until the mid 1800's. American puritanism and expansionism redefined many ideas. Then, as Latin America and Africa became Christianized, they incorporated local beliefs into the larger whole. Even in the United States, Jesus was liberated from his roots by becoming African, a leader of inspiration in the Black Power movement.

Black Jesus Blesses the Children
20th Century Joe Cauchi (1918-1986 American)
Oil on Canvas

The carving below shows the Holy Family as Chinese:

This item comes from the only Christian woodcarving workshop in China, located in China's Zhejiang province, an area famous for all types of wood carving.

What does all of this mean? Is it necessarily good or bad? The manger scene is one that almost anybody can relate to: it's a happy picture. One which appeals to the basic desire of all people to see a happy mother, father and child together. Any family in any culture can find inspiration in that portrait. But, for Christians, the birth of Christ has no meaning without his subsequent death and resurrection. That's where it gets complicated. The cross is another symbol which is heavily marketed and sold, but I don't think it has as much appeal as the nativity.

Made by Yekosofati Buwembo, a disabled father in Kampala, Uganda.

Does it matter whether people understand the context of the Nativity? I'm not sure it really matters whether the baby is seen as Jewish or not. More importantly, the baby is a symbol of peace. There are two ways to get people to believe in something they can't see: through fear or through love. Christians who dig beneath the veneer of superficiality and try to live a Christlike life do it either because they are afraid of Hell or because they are attracted to God's love. The Baby Jesus is the easiest portal of entry to show the love path. And, if he looks African, Guatemalan, or Swedish, then it's even easier.


This hand-crafted Nativity set is made by a women's group in Kathmandu that seeks to help poor rural women in Nepal. The body of these dolls is made of recycled wooden products mixed with wax and dressed with corn husks.


Things can go the opposite way, too. A culture may disown something that was once theirs because others have made it distasteful to them. I'll never forget a Christmas week, back 20 years ago when I worked at Chicago Uptown Ministry. Every night for one week before Christmas, we would set up tables decked out in white linen, candles and nice plates. Each night a different church would sponsor a supper for the poor or lonely in the neighborhood. We had around 40 or 50 people a night. The church would bring all the food, prepared and ready to serve, and provide live Christmas music. We also had a little play re-enacting the manger scene for a little after dinner entertainment. We would invite different guests to read the roles in the play. I picked a tiny elderly couple out the guests and asked them if they would like to be Mary and Joseph. The woman, shocked, said, "Oh, my! No, we couldn't!!!" I asked them why and they said, "Well, because we're Jewish." Huh? That stopped me dead. I looked at them and said, "But, then... it's perfect! Mary and Joseph were Jewish, too!" I can't remember if they played the parts or not, but it turned out that the little old man used to be a crooner in the local clubs. He sang for us, song after song, Sinatra and many other oldies, still in great form. And, there, I found the spirit of Christmas. That, in all our differences and lack of understanding we can enjoy the gift of the other.

We can look at who we are, where we come from, and try to understand the impact of our cultures, beliefs, and practices on other people. But, in the end, as a Christian, I constantly remember two things: Jesus welcomed the little children and said that theirs was the kingdom of God. To me, that means that we don't have to understand deeply. We just have to have a pure heart. And, secondly, the Apostle Paul reminds us in 1 Corinthians that "Now we see through a glass darkly and then face to face." None of us knows what's really out there. Don't stress out about whether Jesus was white or black or red or yellow or a zebra. Just receive the gift of the Nativity as a gift of love.


The Hyde Family



When I was thinking about this post, I knew that I would need Nativities representing different cultures. I was both pleased and astounded to find World Nativity, a project started by the Hyde Family. Here is their mission statement:

"We are the Hyde Family.

We wanted to do a little good in the world. While contemplating what we could do as a family project to teach our children about charity and serving others, we had a very inspired thought. We started buying Nativity scenes from artisans in poor or developing countries as a means of helping the artisans generate income in a way that preserved their dignity. We thought we might buy a few Nativities, but now we have many.

Along the way, we started buying extra Nativities from artisans we found via great miracles. We sold the extras to our interested friends. We thought it would be a small project, but the response has been so high that we have sold 1,600 Nativities from 50 artisans since 2005. Profits are given 100 percent to charitable causes and micro-credit projects in Third World countries that benefit the poorest people on the planet."

Isn't that absolutely awesome? All of the nativities on this post are from their site. Click on the photos of the nativities for full descriptions of the piece. The ones with prices were available for sale while the ones without were from their personal collection. I found their narratives and vision culturally sensitive, beautifully written and am thrilled to have them as a resource. If you like cultural Nativities, you know where to go!
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Monday, December 8, 2008

Shop NOVICA! Christmas Ornaments from Around the World



NOVICA, one of my favorite online shops, advertises itself as "in association with National Geographic". Their website doesn't really explain how they are associated, except that if you look at it, the layout, products and tone reflects something National Geographic would endorse.

NOVICA's mission is also pretty generic. It starts with, "We want to give artists and artisans around the world a global platform to express their true artistic talents and to spur their creativity. And, we want to provide you with access to unique, hard-to-find items at great values that only the Internet infrastructure can allow..." Although it is a member of Co-op America, NOVICA does not seem to ally itself with the fair trade movement in a specific way. Despite all of this, NOVICA's model is about as fair as you can get. I used to buy wholesale from them when I had my brick and mortar store and now Fiber Focus is an affiliate, supporting the concept through ads they potentially generate a commission.

The movie clip at the top of this post is a good illustration of the impact NOVICA has had on the lives of the many artists and artisans it works with around the world. Every item on its website tells the story of the person who made it. Many started out as individuals and went on to grow their businesses into collectives. For this post, I thought it would be fun to look at some of the ornaments made from some of their suppliers around the world. This is a small sampling and I only picked fiber ones. There are also lovely pieces made from wood, clay and glass.

India




Beaded ornaments, 'Burgundy Heart' (set of 5)

Beaded ornaments, 'Burgundy Heart'

(set of 5)

Velvet hearts in a deep wine color speak of a timeless love. Covered with glittering zardozi embroidery, beadwork and diminutive flowers, the hand-crafted ornaments are luxurious. Parvez A. Warsi crafts the beautiful set of five to showcase traditional Indian arts. Warsi includes a drawstring pouch; its colors may vary.









Ornaments, 'Glittering Joy' (set of 6)

Ornaments, 'Glittering Joy' (set of 6)


Affan welcomes the holiday season with a glittering set of ornaments that includes a star, a tree, a heart, a boot, a butterfly and a fleur-de-lis. The organza ornaments are sewn by hand and feature India's legendary zardozi embroidery shaping festive motifs. Zardozi art first came to light during the reign of emperor Akbar in the Middle Ages, and it is characterized by the artistic use of laid stitch with golden thread known as zari.








Beaded ornaments, 'Golden Partridge' (set of 6)

Beaded ornaments, 'Golden Partridge'

(set of 6)

Glittering zardozi embroidery and fine beadwork distinguish a set of ornaments by Parvez A. Warsi. He crafts a set of six colorful partridges that twirl on golden strings.








Beaded ornaments, 'Christmas Spirit' (set of 4)

Beaded ornaments, 'Christmas Spirit'

(set of 4)

Sparkling beads highlight the fascinating allure of the zardozi embroidery that embellishes these four Christmas ornaments. Zardozi is renowned for its intricate patterns, once embroidered with fine threads of gold or silver. Nowadays it is executed with fine silk threads and is known as zari. This set features four different designs and will adorn with distinctive charm. Please note color shades and/or motifs may vary slightly since these products are entirely hand-crafted.



Indonesia





Natural fiber ornaments, 'Angels' (set of 4)

Natural fiber ornaments, 'Angels'

(set of 4)

Wearing wide-brimmed hats, four Balinese angels showcase nature's gifts. Woven by hand, they are crafted of bamboo, screw pine, water hyacinth and agel grass. Palm leaf and tamanu, the fruit of the beauty leaf tree, adorn this set of ornaments by Dwi Astuti and Kusbudiyanto. Because each is individually crafted of natural fibers, colors and motifs may vary slightly.








Natural fiber ornaments, 'Pink Java Angels' (set of 4)

Natural fiber ornaments,

'Pink Java Angels' (set of 4)

Four Javanese angels celebrate nature's gifts dressed in bright green costumes. Woven by hand, they are crafted of bamboo, screw pine, water hyacinth and agel grass. Palm leaf and tamanu, the fruit of the beauty leaf tree, adorn this set of ornaments by Dwi Astuti and Kusbudiyanto. Coconut shell buttons complete their elegant attires. Because each is individually crafted of natural fibers, colors and motifs may vary slightly.



Peru




Gourd ornaments, 'Jungle Greetings' (set of 6)

Gourd ornaments, 'Jungle Greetings'

(set of 6)

The natural, organic artistry that comes from the Peruvian jungles becomes an original set of ornaments with the art of Rocio Davila Rojas. They are carved by hand from tutuma gourds featuring balsa wood and cotton trim. The natural gourds may vary slightly in shape and size.








Cotton ornaments, 'Peach Christmas Balloons' (set of 3)

Cotton ornaments, 'Peach Christmas Balloons' (set of 3)


Enjoying the view from the sky, celebrants shout Christmas greetings to those below. Margarita and Martha fashion a trio of novel and beautiful Christmas ornaments. The colorful peach hot air balloons feature straw baskets that carry tiny travelers in Andean dress. Because each ornament is individually crafted, colors may vary slightly.








Ornaments, 'Festive Huancavelica Couple' (pair)

Ornaments,

'Festive Huancavelica Couple'

(pair)

Mercedes Benavides celebrates the festive traditions of the Huancavelica region with an endearing pair of tree ornaments. Dressed in traditional costumes, they are expertly crafted by hand. The cholito (young man) and cholita (young woman) smile the radiant smile of the festive season.







Applique ornaments, 'Joyous Bells' (set of 6)

Applique ornaments, 'Joyous Bells' (set of 6)

Festive bells bring the Christmas spirit to the Andes in this charming set by Maria Ramos Sanchez. Children welcome the holiday season as they stroll along with their llamas across the Andean highland. Each scene is eloquently detailed in arpillera, where fabric cutouts are sewn into a wondrous collage over a cotton background. The bells feature a wool border ending in a loop, for hanging. Please note, Ramos uses different fabrics for the arpillera compositions, which can result in a slight difference in color.


Thailand






Cotton ornaments, 'Christmas Stockings' (set of 12)

Cotton ornaments,

'Christmas Stockings' (set of 12)

Embroidered by artisans from Thai Tribal Crafts, twelve bright stockings await Christmas Eve. The handmade ornaments are representative of the textile traditions of the Hmong people, who long ago immigrated to northern Thailand.







Cotton ornaments, 'Tribal Stars' (set of 12)

Cotton ornaments, 'Tribal Stars'

(set of 12)

Embroidered by artisans from Thai Tribal Crafts, stars and flowers appear in precise symmetry on twelve handmade ornaments. The work is representative of the textile traditions of the Hmong people, who long ago immigrated to northern Thailand.



Lots of people collect ornaments. And, how meaningful it can be to attach a person's story to something that is collectible! I haven't wrapped my gifts traditionally in years. Why spend all that money on wrapping paper and bows and ribbons that will end up in the garbage? Instead, I like to use newspaper or some other recycled paper or a scarf or fabric or anything else that can be used and top it off with a handmade ornament. Sure, some of these ornaments are going to be more expensive than the ones made by sweatshops (although most are really quite affordable!), so make the ornament your gift along with a loaf of banana bread or something tasty.

Whatever you decide to do in this lean year, do take a tour of NOVICA's wonderful catalog. You can enter through any of the above ornaments (you are not committing to buy if you click on the button...) and travel by type of item or country. Have fun!

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Friday, September 5, 2008

Arpilleras: Market Scenes and Political Protest

Market Scene arpillera from Earthlink Handcrafts, $45
from the artisans from CIAP Peru
This beautifully crafted Arpillera is made by a group of women
from the Kuyanakuy Artisans Assoc.
They live in the marginalised areas of Lima
This scene depicts their earlier village life
before they became refugees from the civil war of the 1980s.


I spent my junior year of college in South America; one semester in an Urban Studies program based in Bogota, Colombia and the second at the Lutheran seminary in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil. Bogota has a fascinating museum that showcases traditional crafts from the area, Museo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares. Housed in a former monastery, Colombia's rich heritage of weaving, ceramic art, basketry and woolen products are displayed with honor.


I saw my first arpilleras in this museum, 3-d appliqued tapestries of village life. The museum had a couple of enormous pieces, covering a whole wall with people engaged in every kind of activity, all carefully stuffed, embroidered and brightly clothed. The scenes evoked happiness, life, and productivity. That was over twenty years ago and since then, the technique has spread. I don't know which country started it, but arpilleras are also found in Peru, Ecuador and Chile and have become increasingly more diverse in their themes. Lucuma Designs, a Fair Trade Organization, carries a huge selection of beautifully crafted arpilleras, from traditional designs to wild dinosaurs and other themes.
Dinosaurs, $167

A couple of years after graduating from college, I worked for Chicago Uptown Ministry, a Lutheran project that provides direct service to low income people in one of Chicago's most populated and ethnically diverse neighborhoods. One of my roles there was to provide different craft activities to the people we serviced. I introduced the arpilleras to a group of women and taught them how to make the 3-d images. Then, I asked them to each pick a window from their apartments and try to translate what they saw on to fabric. I regret not having taken photos of their work... the results were absolutely wonderful. The best one was done by a Native American woman who already had some sewing skills. She had a part of the MacDonald's arch showing up in her window, lots of interior details, and she even cut pieces off of her actual curtains to use them in her little tapestry!

I find this whole process very interesting. Women who knew very little about South America could relate to these pictures and see how to speak of their own lives. And, Latin women, as well, have taken arpilleras beyond the market scenes or touristy vistas to document moments of tragedy, despair and outrage. This has been especially true in Chile, where women would meet clandestinely to sew together as a protest against human rights violations under the rule of Augusto Pinochet (1973-1989).

El Exilio en Chile documents some of the experiences and positions many exiles took during this time. The arpillera above shows people fleeing the country and going into exile in Argentina, Uruguay, the United States and other countries. The Needlework Manifesto, a fellow blogger, has this Chilean arpillera on her blog:

The piece asks, "Where are the detained who have disappeared?" Like many other South American countries during the 1970's, Chile lost thousands of its youth to torture and death for speaking up against its dictatorial regime.

Professor Marjorie Agosín, a Jewish exile from Chile, has received many awards for her work in human rights and her literary achievements. She is a professor in the Spanish Department at Wellesley College in Massachusetts. Over the years, she collected many of these protest arpilleras and compiled them into a book, "Tapestries of Hope, Threads of Life: The Arpillera Movement in Chile, 1974-1994". Amazon's description of the book:

"This book tells the story of ordinary women living in terror and extreme poverty under General Pinochet's oppressive rule in Chile (1973–1989) and how their lives did and did not change following his reign. These women defied the military dictatorship by embroidering their sorrow on scraps of cloth, using needles and thread as one of the boldest means of popular protest and resistance in Latin America. The arpilleras they made—patchwork tapestries with scenes of everyday life and memorials to their disappeared relatives—were smuggled out of Chile and brought to the world the story of their fruitless searches in jails, morgues, government offices, and the tribunals of law for their husbands, brothers, and sons.

Marjorie Agosín, herself a native of and exile from Chile, has spent over twenty years interviewing the arpilleristas and following their work. She knows their stories intimately and knows, too, that not one of them has ever found a disappeared relative alive. Still, many of them maintain hope and continue to make their arpilleras. Even though the dictatorship ended in 1989 and democracy returned to Chile, no full account of the detained and disappeared has ever been offered. This book includes a history of the women's movement, testimonies from the women in their own words, and, for the first time, full-color plates of their beautiful, moving, and ultimately hopeful arpilleras. Anyone interested in the history of contemporary Latin America will want to read this powerful story."

The book has a forward by Isabel Allende, one of my favorite authors and another Chilean exile. She wrote a book, "My Invented Country" which looks at her time in Chile and has a fascinating insight to the concept of memory, reality, and history.

Most of us will not have such sorrowful stories or memories to tell through our work. We each do, however, have our own specific experience. I take two lessons from this post for myself: art is a powerful voice in society and in everything I make, I try to make it my own. Whether abstract or figurative, decorative, functional or visual, every piece we contribute reflects a collective voice of our experience as a people, moving forward with our own stories in the larger market of life.

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