TAFA: The Textile and Fiber Art List

Showing posts with label India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label India. Show all posts

Monday, December 15, 2008

Ethnic Nativities & Identity plus The Hyde Family

Zulu Beaded Doll Nativity
This set contains Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus in a manger,
made by Zulu women in a co-op in Kwa Zulu, Zululand in eastern South Africa.

Ethnic nativities offer an excellent opportunity to take a look at multiculturalism and the search for identity. Christianity's roots spring from the Bible, a text that historically and culturally belonged to the people of Israel. But, the New Testament, through Christ, made the Word available to all and in the last 2000 years, Christianity has indeed spread around the globe. Much of the initial work was done through missionaries, first through the Roman Catholic Church's participation in conquering the New World and in its alliance with traders in Africa and the Orient, then through Protestant missionaries who felt called to take the Word of God to the most remote regions of the world. The Industrial Revolution and consequent developments in communication (print, radio, television, and the internet) made it even easier for Christianity to achieve access into other cultures. (The reverse is also true as other religions and belief systems have made an impact on traditionally Christian turf.) Without addressing the pros and cons of this reality (ie. the cost in terms of lives lost, wars fought, or pros such as clinics and schools built in the name of Christ), the Nativity scene is recognized throughout the world, even where Christianity is not practiced.


The scene was created by an organization called GuguCrafters,
comprised of four Zimbabwean refugees living in Cape Town, South Africa.

A basic Nativity consists of the Baby Jesus, Mary and Joseph. The baby in the manger with two figures on either side is such a familiar icon that just the shapes are enough to inform the viewer about the narrative. For example, the soda images above without the baby might be angels or choir members. Their praying hands indicate some kind of piety, but having the baby in the box with it eliminates any confusion that this is anything but a Nativity scene. This set doesn't have any ethnic tags to it. Obviously, it is recycled, but soda pop crafts are also very popular in Vietnam and increasing in other countries, including here in the United States.

An ethnic tag means that the piece is easily recognized by its technique as originating from a specific country or people. Anyone familiar with that culture will recognize the craft because it is produced in abundant quantities. Similar pieces made by different artisans can be found in the markets of that country or in specialty stores and catalogs. Here are some examples:

Peruvian Retablo Nativity
This Nativity is a retablo (diorama) scene.
Retablos are shrinelike boxes with religious scenes inside,
an art form unique to Peru.
They have evolved from the portable altars
which the Spanish conquistadores brought with them in the 16th century.

India- Textile Stamps Nativity
This Nativity is made from hand-carved wood pieces in India.
Bread Dough Nativity (Masapan), Equador
Each piece of this Nativity scene was painstakingly hand-molded from bread dough and baked until very hard by descendants of one of the original families in Ecuador who began the tradition of giving these masapan gifts to neighbors approximately 150 years ago. This technique originated in Calderón, which is a pueblo just outside of Quito in the Andes Mountains.

Arpillera Nativity from Peru

This Nativity hanging from Peru is called an arpillera, which in Spanish means burlap or sackcloth. Talented women use fabrics of many colors and textures to make this scene. They individually designed and hand-stitched every little detail.

The Peace Corps, NGO's, church groups and tourism all had an impact on how traditional handicrafts in different countries increasingly looked to the Western market (USA, Canada and Europe) for support. The fair trade movement increasingly became better at standardizing the crafts with quality control guidelines, understanding market trends and using the internet and trade shows as outlets. Christmas is a huge niche as both ornaments and nativity scenes have an audience of collectors. So, the Jewish family morphed and became represented by the cultural tags of the artisan. Jesus was not only a Jew, but also a Zulu, a Navajo, a Mexican, and an Inuit.

Elaborate Cloth and Fur Nativity $250
This Nativity set is handcrafted in Mongolia by Tsegtsmaa.
She made by hand all of the figures and animals, even using a lathe to make the wood bodies.

Part of this does come from marketing, but erasing the Baby Jesus's cultural roots also reflects a level of self-imaging where cultural bridges can be made through a story. Missionaries found early on that in order to explain the concept of Jesus they first had to try to understand the culture they were trying to impact. How do you explain "your sins will be washed away and be pure as snow" to someone who has never seen winter? Try explaining a father giving his son as a sacrifice to cannibals... Anthropoligists, linguists and Victorian travelers had a hard enough time exchanging basic information on family structures, meaning of words, and dietary practices without having to make a whole religious philosophy understood. In time, sometimes through force, sometimes through genuine interest, certain symbols have become recognized in all of the continents and at least, in all major urban areas around the world. These symbols have become a part of the larger marketplace with or without the meanings attached to them. Or, religions have synchretized into something new. Christianity was largely shaped by European theologians until the mid 1800's. American puritanism and expansionism redefined many ideas. Then, as Latin America and Africa became Christianized, they incorporated local beliefs into the larger whole. Even in the United States, Jesus was liberated from his roots by becoming African, a leader of inspiration in the Black Power movement.

Black Jesus Blesses the Children
20th Century Joe Cauchi (1918-1986 American)
Oil on Canvas

The carving below shows the Holy Family as Chinese:

This item comes from the only Christian woodcarving workshop in China, located in China's Zhejiang province, an area famous for all types of wood carving.

What does all of this mean? Is it necessarily good or bad? The manger scene is one that almost anybody can relate to: it's a happy picture. One which appeals to the basic desire of all people to see a happy mother, father and child together. Any family in any culture can find inspiration in that portrait. But, for Christians, the birth of Christ has no meaning without his subsequent death and resurrection. That's where it gets complicated. The cross is another symbol which is heavily marketed and sold, but I don't think it has as much appeal as the nativity.

Made by Yekosofati Buwembo, a disabled father in Kampala, Uganda.

Does it matter whether people understand the context of the Nativity? I'm not sure it really matters whether the baby is seen as Jewish or not. More importantly, the baby is a symbol of peace. There are two ways to get people to believe in something they can't see: through fear or through love. Christians who dig beneath the veneer of superficiality and try to live a Christlike life do it either because they are afraid of Hell or because they are attracted to God's love. The Baby Jesus is the easiest portal of entry to show the love path. And, if he looks African, Guatemalan, or Swedish, then it's even easier.


This hand-crafted Nativity set is made by a women's group in Kathmandu that seeks to help poor rural women in Nepal. The body of these dolls is made of recycled wooden products mixed with wax and dressed with corn husks.


Things can go the opposite way, too. A culture may disown something that was once theirs because others have made it distasteful to them. I'll never forget a Christmas week, back 20 years ago when I worked at Chicago Uptown Ministry. Every night for one week before Christmas, we would set up tables decked out in white linen, candles and nice plates. Each night a different church would sponsor a supper for the poor or lonely in the neighborhood. We had around 40 or 50 people a night. The church would bring all the food, prepared and ready to serve, and provide live Christmas music. We also had a little play re-enacting the manger scene for a little after dinner entertainment. We would invite different guests to read the roles in the play. I picked a tiny elderly couple out the guests and asked them if they would like to be Mary and Joseph. The woman, shocked, said, "Oh, my! No, we couldn't!!!" I asked them why and they said, "Well, because we're Jewish." Huh? That stopped me dead. I looked at them and said, "But, then... it's perfect! Mary and Joseph were Jewish, too!" I can't remember if they played the parts or not, but it turned out that the little old man used to be a crooner in the local clubs. He sang for us, song after song, Sinatra and many other oldies, still in great form. And, there, I found the spirit of Christmas. That, in all our differences and lack of understanding we can enjoy the gift of the other.

We can look at who we are, where we come from, and try to understand the impact of our cultures, beliefs, and practices on other people. But, in the end, as a Christian, I constantly remember two things: Jesus welcomed the little children and said that theirs was the kingdom of God. To me, that means that we don't have to understand deeply. We just have to have a pure heart. And, secondly, the Apostle Paul reminds us in 1 Corinthians that "Now we see through a glass darkly and then face to face." None of us knows what's really out there. Don't stress out about whether Jesus was white or black or red or yellow or a zebra. Just receive the gift of the Nativity as a gift of love.


The Hyde Family



When I was thinking about this post, I knew that I would need Nativities representing different cultures. I was both pleased and astounded to find World Nativity, a project started by the Hyde Family. Here is their mission statement:

"We are the Hyde Family.

We wanted to do a little good in the world. While contemplating what we could do as a family project to teach our children about charity and serving others, we had a very inspired thought. We started buying Nativity scenes from artisans in poor or developing countries as a means of helping the artisans generate income in a way that preserved their dignity. We thought we might buy a few Nativities, but now we have many.

Along the way, we started buying extra Nativities from artisans we found via great miracles. We sold the extras to our interested friends. We thought it would be a small project, but the response has been so high that we have sold 1,600 Nativities from 50 artisans since 2005. Profits are given 100 percent to charitable causes and micro-credit projects in Third World countries that benefit the poorest people on the planet."

Isn't that absolutely awesome? All of the nativities on this post are from their site. Click on the photos of the nativities for full descriptions of the piece. The ones with prices were available for sale while the ones without were from their personal collection. I found their narratives and vision culturally sensitive, beautifully written and am thrilled to have them as a resource. If you like cultural Nativities, you know where to go!
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Monday, December 8, 2008

Shop NOVICA! Christmas Ornaments from Around the World



NOVICA, one of my favorite online shops, advertises itself as "in association with National Geographic". Their website doesn't really explain how they are associated, except that if you look at it, the layout, products and tone reflects something National Geographic would endorse.

NOVICA's mission is also pretty generic. It starts with, "We want to give artists and artisans around the world a global platform to express their true artistic talents and to spur their creativity. And, we want to provide you with access to unique, hard-to-find items at great values that only the Internet infrastructure can allow..." Although it is a member of Co-op America, NOVICA does not seem to ally itself with the fair trade movement in a specific way. Despite all of this, NOVICA's model is about as fair as you can get. I used to buy wholesale from them when I had my brick and mortar store and now Fiber Focus is an affiliate, supporting the concept through ads they potentially generate a commission.

The movie clip at the top of this post is a good illustration of the impact NOVICA has had on the lives of the many artists and artisans it works with around the world. Every item on its website tells the story of the person who made it. Many started out as individuals and went on to grow their businesses into collectives. For this post, I thought it would be fun to look at some of the ornaments made from some of their suppliers around the world. This is a small sampling and I only picked fiber ones. There are also lovely pieces made from wood, clay and glass.

India




Beaded ornaments, 'Burgundy Heart' (set of 5)

Beaded ornaments, 'Burgundy Heart'

(set of 5)

Velvet hearts in a deep wine color speak of a timeless love. Covered with glittering zardozi embroidery, beadwork and diminutive flowers, the hand-crafted ornaments are luxurious. Parvez A. Warsi crafts the beautiful set of five to showcase traditional Indian arts. Warsi includes a drawstring pouch; its colors may vary.









Ornaments, 'Glittering Joy' (set of 6)

Ornaments, 'Glittering Joy' (set of 6)


Affan welcomes the holiday season with a glittering set of ornaments that includes a star, a tree, a heart, a boot, a butterfly and a fleur-de-lis. The organza ornaments are sewn by hand and feature India's legendary zardozi embroidery shaping festive motifs. Zardozi art first came to light during the reign of emperor Akbar in the Middle Ages, and it is characterized by the artistic use of laid stitch with golden thread known as zari.








Beaded ornaments, 'Golden Partridge' (set of 6)

Beaded ornaments, 'Golden Partridge'

(set of 6)

Glittering zardozi embroidery and fine beadwork distinguish a set of ornaments by Parvez A. Warsi. He crafts a set of six colorful partridges that twirl on golden strings.








Beaded ornaments, 'Christmas Spirit' (set of 4)

Beaded ornaments, 'Christmas Spirit'

(set of 4)

Sparkling beads highlight the fascinating allure of the zardozi embroidery that embellishes these four Christmas ornaments. Zardozi is renowned for its intricate patterns, once embroidered with fine threads of gold or silver. Nowadays it is executed with fine silk threads and is known as zari. This set features four different designs and will adorn with distinctive charm. Please note color shades and/or motifs may vary slightly since these products are entirely hand-crafted.



Indonesia





Natural fiber ornaments, 'Angels' (set of 4)

Natural fiber ornaments, 'Angels'

(set of 4)

Wearing wide-brimmed hats, four Balinese angels showcase nature's gifts. Woven by hand, they are crafted of bamboo, screw pine, water hyacinth and agel grass. Palm leaf and tamanu, the fruit of the beauty leaf tree, adorn this set of ornaments by Dwi Astuti and Kusbudiyanto. Because each is individually crafted of natural fibers, colors and motifs may vary slightly.








Natural fiber ornaments, 'Pink Java Angels' (set of 4)

Natural fiber ornaments,

'Pink Java Angels' (set of 4)

Four Javanese angels celebrate nature's gifts dressed in bright green costumes. Woven by hand, they are crafted of bamboo, screw pine, water hyacinth and agel grass. Palm leaf and tamanu, the fruit of the beauty leaf tree, adorn this set of ornaments by Dwi Astuti and Kusbudiyanto. Coconut shell buttons complete their elegant attires. Because each is individually crafted of natural fibers, colors and motifs may vary slightly.



Peru




Gourd ornaments, 'Jungle Greetings' (set of 6)

Gourd ornaments, 'Jungle Greetings'

(set of 6)

The natural, organic artistry that comes from the Peruvian jungles becomes an original set of ornaments with the art of Rocio Davila Rojas. They are carved by hand from tutuma gourds featuring balsa wood and cotton trim. The natural gourds may vary slightly in shape and size.








Cotton ornaments, 'Peach Christmas Balloons' (set of 3)

Cotton ornaments, 'Peach Christmas Balloons' (set of 3)


Enjoying the view from the sky, celebrants shout Christmas greetings to those below. Margarita and Martha fashion a trio of novel and beautiful Christmas ornaments. The colorful peach hot air balloons feature straw baskets that carry tiny travelers in Andean dress. Because each ornament is individually crafted, colors may vary slightly.








Ornaments, 'Festive Huancavelica Couple' (pair)

Ornaments,

'Festive Huancavelica Couple'

(pair)

Mercedes Benavides celebrates the festive traditions of the Huancavelica region with an endearing pair of tree ornaments. Dressed in traditional costumes, they are expertly crafted by hand. The cholito (young man) and cholita (young woman) smile the radiant smile of the festive season.







Applique ornaments, 'Joyous Bells' (set of 6)

Applique ornaments, 'Joyous Bells' (set of 6)

Festive bells bring the Christmas spirit to the Andes in this charming set by Maria Ramos Sanchez. Children welcome the holiday season as they stroll along with their llamas across the Andean highland. Each scene is eloquently detailed in arpillera, where fabric cutouts are sewn into a wondrous collage over a cotton background. The bells feature a wool border ending in a loop, for hanging. Please note, Ramos uses different fabrics for the arpillera compositions, which can result in a slight difference in color.


Thailand






Cotton ornaments, 'Christmas Stockings' (set of 12)

Cotton ornaments,

'Christmas Stockings' (set of 12)

Embroidered by artisans from Thai Tribal Crafts, twelve bright stockings await Christmas Eve. The handmade ornaments are representative of the textile traditions of the Hmong people, who long ago immigrated to northern Thailand.







Cotton ornaments, 'Tribal Stars' (set of 12)

Cotton ornaments, 'Tribal Stars'

(set of 12)

Embroidered by artisans from Thai Tribal Crafts, stars and flowers appear in precise symmetry on twelve handmade ornaments. The work is representative of the textile traditions of the Hmong people, who long ago immigrated to northern Thailand.



Lots of people collect ornaments. And, how meaningful it can be to attach a person's story to something that is collectible! I haven't wrapped my gifts traditionally in years. Why spend all that money on wrapping paper and bows and ribbons that will end up in the garbage? Instead, I like to use newspaper or some other recycled paper or a scarf or fabric or anything else that can be used and top it off with a handmade ornament. Sure, some of these ornaments are going to be more expensive than the ones made by sweatshops (although most are really quite affordable!), so make the ornament your gift along with a loaf of banana bread or something tasty.

Whatever you decide to do in this lean year, do take a tour of NOVICA's wonderful catalog. You can enter through any of the above ornaments (you are not committing to buy if you click on the button...) and travel by type of item or country. Have fun!

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Thursday, August 7, 2008

Wrap yourself in a ralli quilt!

Ralli Quilt #71, Front and Back $160
Those of you who have been following my blog for awhile know that I have a special place in my heart for ralli quilts. These vintage Indian and Pakistani quilts captured my attention awhile back and I have invested everything I could to stock my stores with them. The more I have, the more I want! Hopefully, this is a contagious virus that can be caught through this blog and you will get the disease, too... (Heh, heh) So far, I've succumbed to keeping three for myself while the rest are on Etsy and and in my little store in Paducah (212 Broadway).

Ralli Quilt #69, Front and Back $90

I just finished working on the photos for a new batch that I will be listing soon. If you act quickly, you can purchase these directly from me at a 20% discount from the price listed. Once I have listed them on eBay or Etsy, you will have to go through that store's shopping cart. I also photographed lots of other new things and it will take me several days to post everything, so you have a little bit of time.

Ralli Quilt #70, Front and Back $82

Click on the photos to see larger images of the quilts. I have five photos of each. I'm showing the front and back of each one here and can send the other three to those interested. Leave a comment with contact information and I'll get them to you. The quilts are all about a single bed size. They are functional and can be used, but also look great as wall hangings. The backs are often as interesting as the fronts. All of them have flaws (or they would be much, much more expensive!). I also quilt which might be why I have the disease so badly, but even for the non-quilter, these quilts have some of the folk art qualities that make "naive" art so interesting. They are often crooked, use bizarre (to my eye) color combinations, and carry a history of use in their stains and imperfections. Prices are based on what I paid for them plus quality. Shipping is free on purchases over $100. Feel free to add other of my items on Etsy or eBay to take advantage of that offer.

Ralli Quilt #67, Front and Back $140

Haven't heard of ralli quilts before? Read my other articles for more history, other photos and a review on the book Ralli Quilts by Patricia Ormsby Stoddard.

Ralli Quilt #68, Front and Back $42


All of the quilts are filthy when I get them. I machine wash them in industrial machines to both clean them and test them for durability. Most of these quilts are probably from the 1960's and 1970's.

Ralli Quilt #65, Front and Back $140
Brighter quilts often have a silk content, mixed with poly blends. The earthier ones are cotton which were dyed with cheap, commercial dyes that have faded over time. They are my personal favorites, although I like the bright ones, too. I originally thought that they had been dyed with veggie dyes, but Stoddard's book set me straight.

Ralli Quilt #66, Front and Back $148

I accept Pay Pal, checks and money orders. I will give further instructions on how to pay to those serious about purchasing a quilt.

Ralli Quilt #42, Front and Back $75

For purchases under $100, the quilts fit into a flat rate box that ships for $9 in the United States. I recently shipped a quilt to Denmark and that one cost $35 in shipping.

Ralli Quilt #64, Front and Back $140

That's it! Hope you come down with the Ralli virus as seriously as I have. Sorry, there is no antidote except for growing your collection...
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Thursday, July 10, 2008

Women of Tilonia and The Barefoot College

My friend Pam sent me this video entitled "Women of Tilonia":


She knows how much I love ralli quilts and the video shows two women preparing a quilt top for appliqué.


"Wish I could sit like that..." I thought, as I watched the video. Then, I realized I had no idea where Tilonia was. Tilonia? Well, I googled and followed links and was amazed to read on about this place in Rajasthan, India, which hosts the novel concept of a Barefoot College.


This is how they describe themselves:

"The Barefoot College is a place of learning and unlearning. It's a place where the teacher is the learner and the learner is the teacher. It's a place where NO degrees and certificates are given because in development there are no experts-only resource persons. It's a place where people are encouraged to make mistakes so that they can learn humility, curiosity, the courage to take risks, to innovate, to improvise and to constantly experiment. It's a place where all are treated as equals and there is no hierarchy.

So long as the process leads to the good and welfare of all; so long as problems of discrimination, injustice, exploitation and inequalities are addressed directly or indirectly; so long as the poor, the deprived and the dispossessed feel its a place they can talk, be heard with dignity and respect, be trained and be given the tools and the skills to improve their own lives the immediate relevance of the Barefoot College to the global poor will always be there."

The college has a focus on handicrafts with workshops in embroidery, sewing, block printing, furniture making, and other traditional crafts.


These are natural extensions of Rajasthan's rich history in all of these crafts. Friends of Tilonia was established to help market the handicrafts:
"Friends of Tilonia, Inc. is a US-based, 501(c)3 non-profit organization established to provide marketing and business development assistance to the crafts section of the Barefoot College, in Tilonia, Rajasthan, India. For more than 35 years, the Barefoot College has been working to address basic needs of the rural poor: water, health, education, energy and employment, while enrolling individuals in the processes that govern their lives.
In 1975, the lack of employment in the villages in Rajasthan forced many of the rural poor to migrate to the cities. While largely an agricultural area, many of the poor in the region were artisans engaged in various crafts. Lacking access to a broader market, these rural artisans abandoned, and still continue today to abandon their trades to seek other, more gainful means of livelihood.
The Barefoot College began promoting rural craft production to address this problem of under-employment. Assistance in improving designs and techniques, creation of marketing outlets, and access to credit have helped to restore and create new income opportunities for craftsmen and women. Training and materials provided by the College also enables women to work from home, helping them to generate income from their needlework or other handicrafts."
Their beautiful website showcases the products made by these artisans as well as photos of the producers, such as the ones I have used in this post. But, the college goes way beyond these efforts and its geographical location. They are tackling issues of malnutrition, illiteracy, health, solar power and many other fundamentals of survival most rural poor face around the world.

Then, I watched this video:

The First Women Barefoot Solar Engineers Of The World

I was absolutely floored! They are bringing rural, illiterate, middle aged women from around the world to live in Tilonia for six months to become solar engineers! As they do not share a common language, all the training is done through drawings and color coding. You have to watch the video to really understand the amazing strategy and potential impact this program has on the participants and the villages they represent.

When I was in college, I learned about Paulo Freire, a Brazilian educator who revolutionized the concept of learning, especially when working with literacy and the poor. Wikipedia states:
"More challenging is Freire's strong aversion to the teacher-student dichotomy. This dichotomy is admitted in Rousseau and constrained in Dewey, but Freire comes close to insisting that it should be completely abolished. This is hard to imagine in absolute terms, since there must be some enactment of the teacher-student relationship in the parent-child relationship, but what Freire suggests is that a deep reciprocity be inserted into our notions of teacher and student. Freire wants us to think in terms of teacher-student and student-teacher - that is, a teacher who learns and a learner who teaches - as the basic roles of classroom participation."

The Barefoot College is Freire's dream come true! What a wonderful model this place is for all who are interested in empowering the disenfranchised. When I see programs like this, my hope for the future is renewed. If you are looking for an organization to support, I would say that any support given here is money well spent.
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