TAFA: The Textile and Fiber Art List

Showing posts with label Beadwork. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beadwork. Show all posts

Friday, December 4, 2009

Kuchi Nomads: Today's Trail of Tears



 Kuchi Woman and Child, Wild Bohemian World

Often lumped together in the same group with the Banjara and other nomads, the Kuchi of Afghanistan are mostly Pashtun, linked together through culture and tradition, more than by ethnic roots.  I recently purchased a bunch of Kuchi beaded patches and have them listed in my Etsy store

 

 Kuchi Patch available through Rayela Art on Etsy

A nice slide show of Kuchi People:



My business, Rayela Art, focuses on ethnic textiles and remnants and I am always interested in the cultures these pieces represent.  And, as usual, a depressingly familia drama unfolds of poverty, injustice, lack of access to basic resources, and violations of both cultural life and the land.  Although I have had quite a bit of exposure to what goes on in Afghanistan through friends and the media, I will not claim any expertise on the plight of the Kuchi.  Instead, I found an article written by the Afghan Embassy in Japan that provides an excellent picture:

"The nomadic Kuchis are potentially the largest vulnerable population in Afghanistan. For centuries their semi-annual migrations with their herds of sheep, goats, donkeys, and camels led to important contributions in terms of skins, meat, and wool to local communities. More than 80% of Afghanistan's land is suitable only for sparse grazing making this sort of seasonal migration ideal. After the war against the Soviet Union, the subsequent years of foreign-imposed war, drought, and ethnic tensions, however, the number of Kuchis, as well as the size of their herds, has dropped dramatically.

The Kuchis were once celebrated in the west as handsome, romantic nomads adorned with silver and lapis jewelry. Traditionally, they have lived by selling or bartering animals, wool, meat, and dairy products for foodstuffs and other items with villagers. As they move from pasture to pasture, the Kuchis are able to escape the limits on the size of local herds, a restriction villagers are subjected to.

Since the fall of the Taliban, life for most Afghans has improved. However, this has not proved true for the Kuchis. Since the 1960's, 70's, and early 80's, the Kuchi population has shrunk by 40% and many of them reside in refugee or displacement camps. The reasons are numerous. The demise of the Kuchi tradition is the result of continued war, destruction of roads, drought, air raids, Soviet bombing and other war-related causes. These problems were further compounded by the fact that the drought from 1998 to 2002 caused the loss off 75% of the Kuchi herds. Pastures have still not recovered sufficiently. In addition, landmines and other unexploded ordinances have restricted the areas available for grazing. War also forced many Kuchis to flee their summer grazing lands in parts of central Afghanistan. When they returned, they found that locals in the areas had converted much of their pastures to farming lands.

Consequently, some Kuchis have given up their nomadic lifestyle and have taken up residence on the outskirts of cities, working as laborers. Many express a desire to return to their traditional role, but many aid agencies, however, concentrate on short-term economic and humanitarian aid, rather than the sort of long-term aid the Kuchis would need to rebuild their herds."

The situation is so bad that many Kuchi have ended up in refugee camps where life continues to offer misery and hunger:



The UN Refugee Agency (UNHCR) also has an excellent report detailing both a Kuchi profile and the issues they face.  Here are some of the highlights:
  • Typically, there are three types of Kuchi: pure nomads, semi-sedentary and nomadic traders. The majority are semi-sedentary, living in the same winter area year after year. The purely nomadic Kuchi have no fixed abode, and are dependent on animals for their livelihood; their movements are determined by the weather and the availability of good pasturage. Traders constitute the smallest percentage of Kuchis; their main activity being the transport of goods. The semi-pastoral Kuchis are gradually tending towards a more sedentary way of life. The majority do so because they can no longer support themselves from their livestock.
  • The Kuchis constitute a great part of Afghanistan's cultural tradition. For centuries, they have migrated across the country in a search of seasonable pastures and milder weather. They were the main traders in Afghanistan, connecting South Asia with the Middle East. The livestock owned by the Kuchis made an important contribution in the national economy. They owned about 30 per cent of all the sheep and goats and most of the camels. Traditionally they exchanged tea, sugar matches etc. for wheat and vegetables with the settled people. They also acted as moneylenders and offered services in transportation along with additional labour at harvest time. Kuchi have been greatly affected by conflict, drought and demographic shifts. Therefore, it is only a small number of Kuchis who still follow their traditional livelihood of nomadic herding. Despite their history and their previous endowments the chronic state of instability in Afghanistan has left them among the poorest groups in the country.
  • With the development of the road system in Afghanistan in the 1950s and 1960s and the formation of road transportation companies with fleets of trucks, the traditional Kuchi camel caravan gradually became obsolete, greatly impacting the income and lifestyle of the community. The situation for the Kuchi became even more tenuous after the war and during the droughts of 1971-1972 and 1998-2002. These droughts are attributed with being responsible for the death of 75 per cent of the Kuchi animals.
  • During the Taliban regime, Kuchi nomads (being of Pashtun origin) were encouraged to settle on land that was already occupied by other ethnic groups. The lack of overall policy regarding land tenure and pasture rights by the authorities created prolonged disputes over the land and resources between the settled Afghans and the Kuchi. The traditional system of pasture rights seems to have been eroded and replaced by the power of the gun.
  • Kuchis who have livestock are often unable to drive their flocks to their traditional summer grazing pastures in the central highlands. Very little of the foreign assistance extended to Afghanistan by the international community has arrived to aid the Kuchis. Few assistance agencies work in the insecure areas in which they are located, and most donors emphasize short-term economic and humanitarian aid rather than the longer-term assistance the Kuchis need to rebuild their herds. As a result, most of the Kuchi today remain jobless and illiterate.
There are some efforts in progress trying to address these problems.  For example, the Afghanistan PEACE Project, a collaboration of USAID and other NGOs, have put together an assessment of pastoral needs for different areas in Afghanistan.  The major barriers they see for the Kuchi are access to water for themselves and their herds, access to veterinary services, and conflict with villages, warlords and among themselves as they compete for pasture and these resources.  None of these problems have a quick fix and most likely, the end of a proud heritage of living on the land will soon come to an end.

I feel a link to these people and to the other groups I represent when I handle their textiles and crafts.  Ironically, the Kuchi pieces I bought came from an American who is based over their with the US army.  There are many groups who would like to do much more in Afghanistan through handicraft production, but the country is still so dangerous, that most of the fair trade products are centralized in Kabul.  My hope is that someday, the Kuchi also will be able to access some of these services and make a living through the wonderful textile and beading skills they already possess.  I would like to wipe these tears away and when I look at the beaded patches, instead of a tear, each bead represents a bit of hope.





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Thursday, November 19, 2009

Deerwoman Designs Uses Beads from Afghan Tribal Arts


Carnelian, Jade and Turquoise Necklace 

Normally, I try to keep this blog's subject matters closely tied to themes that address textiles or fiber art.  But, I have two friends who have small businesses where beads dominate the scene.  Anita Ghaemi of Deerwoman Designs makes the beautiful jewelry shown in this post and Abdul Wardak of Afghan Tribal Arts supplies her and other jewelry makers and bead stores around the country with his hand-carved, natural beads from Afghanistan.  Actually, beads do not really stray far from the textile/fiber art road, as many of us love to incorporate them into our pieces.



Abdul has been my buddy for a long, long time now.  We used to be partners in a Chicago Gallery, Dara Tribal Village.  After I moved to Kentucky, I continued to sell online and he travels around wholesaling his products from Afghan Tribal Arts.  I have been helping him develop an online presence.  Abdul is a wonderful storyteller, but can't spell worth a dime.  He now has a store on Etsy and I have just loaded a bunch of his beads there. 



Flat Oval Jade Beads from Afghan Tribal Arts 
now available on Etsy!

These beads from Afghanistan have been hand-carved from semi-precious stones like jade, carnelian, lapis lazuli and onyx.  Afghanistan has long supplied artisans all over the world with its vast mineral natural resources.  The coveted lapis lazuli, only found there and in Chile, made its way into glass work, inlay, mosaics, and illuminated manuscripts in the Middle Ages.  Today's bead market has changed a great deal since those days as synthetics, dyes and cheap imitations undermine the value of these natural stones.  We decided to list the beads on Etsy as strands instead of selling them as single beads partly because it is easier for me to keep track of his inventory this way.  So, a strand can cost between $10-$100, depending on the value of the stone, the cut and its length.


Deerwoman Designs uses lapis heishi with sterling silver spacers 
and semi-precious stones as focal beads.

The cost of the beads can be quite an investment, yet the beauty of these stones are easily seen when compared to their cheaper competitors.  Unpolished stones like these take on a deep luster as they are worn, absorbing the oils of the skin.  And, to those who also look for the healing properties found in the stones, minerals and fluids have greater exchange values in the raw state.



Jade heishi beads from Afghan Tribal Arts.

The bigger stones usually take center stage over smaller, simpler ones.  Yet, examine Anita's necklaces closely and look at how she uses the tiny heishi beads to emphasize the larger focal ones.  Glass seed beads, a much cheaper option, would also look fine, but don't you think that these natural heishis complement the larger beads perfectly?  Artists like Anita help us see these components in a new way, illustrating how an assortment of stones can be made into wonderful wearable art!



Deerwoman Designs also makes great use of tribal pendants.  I have listed a few, but have several more in line, waiting for their turn.  For example, this Turkman pendant would be quite the eye catcher as the main jewel on a beaded necklace:



Turkman pendant from Afghan Tribal Arts.
A gazelle, once abundant in Afghanistan, carved into turquoise.


 
A Turkman pendant adorns this strand of mixed 
stones by Deerwoman Designs.

Afghan Tribal Arts has a website with samples of beads that are usually in stock.  Go take a look and if you see something you really like, send me a request.  Copy and paste the photo into an email so that I can have a visual.  Abdul makes regular stops by my house and if he has the beads you want on his van, I can add them on to the Etsy selection.  We have decided that instead of adding a shopping cart to his website, we would use Etsy as the retail platform.  If you have a tax id # and want to buy in quantities, you can also send me wholesale requests and I will pass those on to him.  (My email is on the top right hand corner of this blog.)


 
A beautiful lapis lazuli necklace by 
 

Deerwoman Designs has a retail store on Artisans Market and on Etsy.  You can also follow her through her blog.

 





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Wednesday, January 7, 2009

Afghan Tribal Arts: On the Way to the Tucson Bead Show!

Abdul Wardak owns and operates Afghan Tribal Arts

Every January thousands and thousands flock to Tucson, Arizona. Birds? No. Bead lovers. Bead fanatics. Bead addicts. Tucson hosts THE definitive bead show for stores, dealers, web outlets, and collectors. Vendors from all over the world spill out their wares... glass, stone, shell, pearls, silver, brass, copper, seeds, polished, raw, mass produced, hand made, collectible, tribal- you name it.

My dear friend, Abdul, will be there. Abdul and I have been friends for a long time and shared a partnership in a gallery in Chicago, Dara Tribal Village, for four years. I moved to Kentucky and continue to sell online, while he remains based in Chicago, but spends most of the time in his van, wholesaling his beads and textiles to galleries and specialty stores around the South East.

Abdul Wardak at a bead show in North Carolina

The love of beads is a nasty addiction and affliction. Once you have been bitten by the bug, the romance blossoms until the little orbs call you in the night, whispering... "You need more of me, more, more, more..." Most people buy beads for their obvious use in jewelry making. I've done my share of making necklaces and earrings, but I prefer to incorporate them into my quilts, garments or other objects I might work on. I've never had the patience to weave them, but have great admiration for Native American skills and others who use beads as a surface cover. Yes, I have my stash... Fortunately, beads don't take up as much space as fabric, but those little buggers can end up costing a lot more! Prices are all over the board, depending on the material, origin, and context of how they were made.

Hand carved carnelian beads from Afghanistan
so rich in color you could eat them!

Afghan Tribal Arts specializes in two kinds of beads: old collectible tribal beads and new metal or semi-precious gemstones made or carved by artisans in Peshawar and other parts of Central Asia. Afghanistan may seem poor and devastated, but it has great mineral wealth. Although I sometimes shudder at the thought of mountains being blown up for carnelian, lapis or jade, the stone industry is a great source of employment which helps provide stability in a country devastated by war and drought. Abdul immigrated to the United States in the early 1980's. He brought back some samples of handicrafts from Afghanistan on a couple of visits, found that there was a market in the US for them and began bringing more and more until he established Afghan Tribal Arts as one of the largest US importers of beads, carpets, textiles, and other handicrafts from Afghanistan and the region. He has an intimate relationship with his suppliers and has designed many of the cuts of the beads he carries.

Abdul Wardak on a visit to Afghanistan

Where we get things counts. Paying fair wages counts. Quality counts. Bead shows are flooded with imitation beads or beads that were made with cheap labor. Is it really turquoise? Blood red coral for how much? In this lean economy, quality beads often get passed over for cheaper imitations, a fact that has had an impact on Afghan Tribal Arts and other quality bead suppliers. But, once you develop a love for the genuine, replacing it with cheapness feels like a betrayel. Take a close look at just some of the beauty given to us by Mother Earth:

The greens of jade, citrine and malachite...

Deep oranges and buttery tones of carnelian and agates...


Fluorite, a veiny stone that ranges in shades of purples and blues...

And, the royal stone, lapis lazuli,
a treasure found only in Afghanistan and Chile.


Afghan Tribal Arts also carries tribal beaded remnants and vintage pendants and jewelry. The beaded disc below is found on all kinds of Pashtun apparel, in hats, on garments and on bags. Some call it a "Kabul disc".

Kabul disc from Afghanistan.

Jewelry from Central Asia shows centuries of craftsmanship.

Afghanistan and neighboring countries have embellished their garments and utilitarian objects with beads for centuries. The photo below shows a display we had in our gallery.

Afghan Tribal Arts on display at Dara Tribal Village.

So, if you are one of those heading towards Tucson, make sure to look up Afghan Tribal Arts. There are two shows, back to back, organized by the same group where you will find him. The links will take you to the show's website:


To Bead True Blue
(Tucson)
February 1st-6th

Abdul Wardak of Afghan Tribal Arts.

Abdul is on his way!


The night has come to an end,
Dawn awaits the ship to depart.
It’s a new day in the making,
Two friends dear and one say goodbye-
Very hard, but wise.
As he looks back in his mind
He knows that the memory of the past
Is the only untouchable and priceless treasure
That he took and left behind
And the simple wish is that someday
If he returns to shore
A friend may remember who he is.

Abdul Ahad Wardak
12/06/06


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Tuesday, January 6, 2009

African Art Trunk Show in Paducah! January 16 & 17

Bunja has a nice collection of Bobo masks
and other masks from Cameroon.

Mark your calendars! If you are a fan of African art you will not want to miss this two-day trunk show in Paducah!


January 16 & 17
Bunja Sako of African Arts
Trunk Show at English's Antiques
212 Broadway
Paducah, Kentucky
10AM-7PM

Bunja Sako of African Arts

Bunja Sako will be coming to Paducah with a van loaded with goodies from his import business, African Arts. Bunja, a native of Gambia, lives in Columbus, OH, and has been selling African carvings, textiles, and beads to ethnic galleries around the Midwest for over 22 years. Bunja's magic van will be loaded with:

  • African beads (trade, bone, Christmas, brass and copper from Ghana and Nigeria)

  • Bobo Masks

  • Masks from Cameroon

  • Stools from Tanzania

  • Dogon doors

  • Kuba cloth

  • Yoruba beaded hats and belts
Like every other African trader I have ever met, Bunja loads his van to maximum capacity. I shudder when I see these wonderful carvings and sculptures all jammed in like this, but somehow, they seem to survive. Yes, some wood does get chipped from time to time, but a little shoe polish seems to do the trick.




The reality is that traders like Bunja have no other option but to travel around like this. Many of the pieces sell best when they are seen in person and Bunja does not have computer skills, something which would greatly reduce the need to travel. Besides, having personal contact between traders and the retailers who buy from them builds trust, relationships, and cultural interaction.

Christmas beads

Dyed Buffalo Beads

We are thrilled to have Bunja at English's and hope that there will be a good turn out. Paducah is about a 2-3 hour drive from Nashville, Memphis and St. Louis. The drive would be worth it for an excursion that could also lead to explorations of the Quilt Museum (just one block from English's), antique stores, and the art galleries in LowerTown. (See my past articles on Paducah to read more about what is going on here.)

Of all of Bunja's treasures, I think my favorites are the Yoruba beaded hats and sculptures. We carried several pieces in our Chicago gallery and I never tired of looking at them.

Yoruba Beaded Sculpture


Yoruba Beaded Hat

I've also always been captivated by the lost wax process and brass or bronze sculptures. I own a couple of pieces from Africa and India and hope that someday I have more (don't know that my husband would approve of any more purchases of ethnic art........ heh, heh.)

Lost wax bronze beads.

Bronze sculpture


Lost Wax Ankle Bracelet

Come and join us! We are hoping to have many more of these events in the future. If you are also interested in having a trunk show at English's, leave a comment with contact info or e-mail me (link is on the top right corner of the blog).

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Monday, December 8, 2008

Shop NOVICA! Christmas Ornaments from Around the World



NOVICA, one of my favorite online shops, advertises itself as "in association with National Geographic". Their website doesn't really explain how they are associated, except that if you look at it, the layout, products and tone reflects something National Geographic would endorse.

NOVICA's mission is also pretty generic. It starts with, "We want to give artists and artisans around the world a global platform to express their true artistic talents and to spur their creativity. And, we want to provide you with access to unique, hard-to-find items at great values that only the Internet infrastructure can allow..." Although it is a member of Co-op America, NOVICA does not seem to ally itself with the fair trade movement in a specific way. Despite all of this, NOVICA's model is about as fair as you can get. I used to buy wholesale from them when I had my brick and mortar store and now Fiber Focus is an affiliate, supporting the concept through ads they potentially generate a commission.

The movie clip at the top of this post is a good illustration of the impact NOVICA has had on the lives of the many artists and artisans it works with around the world. Every item on its website tells the story of the person who made it. Many started out as individuals and went on to grow their businesses into collectives. For this post, I thought it would be fun to look at some of the ornaments made from some of their suppliers around the world. This is a small sampling and I only picked fiber ones. There are also lovely pieces made from wood, clay and glass.

India




Beaded ornaments, 'Burgundy Heart' (set of 5)

Beaded ornaments, 'Burgundy Heart'

(set of 5)

Velvet hearts in a deep wine color speak of a timeless love. Covered with glittering zardozi embroidery, beadwork and diminutive flowers, the hand-crafted ornaments are luxurious. Parvez A. Warsi crafts the beautiful set of five to showcase traditional Indian arts. Warsi includes a drawstring pouch; its colors may vary.









Ornaments, 'Glittering Joy' (set of 6)

Ornaments, 'Glittering Joy' (set of 6)


Affan welcomes the holiday season with a glittering set of ornaments that includes a star, a tree, a heart, a boot, a butterfly and a fleur-de-lis. The organza ornaments are sewn by hand and feature India's legendary zardozi embroidery shaping festive motifs. Zardozi art first came to light during the reign of emperor Akbar in the Middle Ages, and it is characterized by the artistic use of laid stitch with golden thread known as zari.








Beaded ornaments, 'Golden Partridge' (set of 6)

Beaded ornaments, 'Golden Partridge'

(set of 6)

Glittering zardozi embroidery and fine beadwork distinguish a set of ornaments by Parvez A. Warsi. He crafts a set of six colorful partridges that twirl on golden strings.








Beaded ornaments, 'Christmas Spirit' (set of 4)

Beaded ornaments, 'Christmas Spirit'

(set of 4)

Sparkling beads highlight the fascinating allure of the zardozi embroidery that embellishes these four Christmas ornaments. Zardozi is renowned for its intricate patterns, once embroidered with fine threads of gold or silver. Nowadays it is executed with fine silk threads and is known as zari. This set features four different designs and will adorn with distinctive charm. Please note color shades and/or motifs may vary slightly since these products are entirely hand-crafted.



Indonesia





Natural fiber ornaments, 'Angels' (set of 4)

Natural fiber ornaments, 'Angels'

(set of 4)

Wearing wide-brimmed hats, four Balinese angels showcase nature's gifts. Woven by hand, they are crafted of bamboo, screw pine, water hyacinth and agel grass. Palm leaf and tamanu, the fruit of the beauty leaf tree, adorn this set of ornaments by Dwi Astuti and Kusbudiyanto. Because each is individually crafted of natural fibers, colors and motifs may vary slightly.








Natural fiber ornaments, 'Pink Java Angels' (set of 4)

Natural fiber ornaments,

'Pink Java Angels' (set of 4)

Four Javanese angels celebrate nature's gifts dressed in bright green costumes. Woven by hand, they are crafted of bamboo, screw pine, water hyacinth and agel grass. Palm leaf and tamanu, the fruit of the beauty leaf tree, adorn this set of ornaments by Dwi Astuti and Kusbudiyanto. Coconut shell buttons complete their elegant attires. Because each is individually crafted of natural fibers, colors and motifs may vary slightly.



Peru




Gourd ornaments, 'Jungle Greetings' (set of 6)

Gourd ornaments, 'Jungle Greetings'

(set of 6)

The natural, organic artistry that comes from the Peruvian jungles becomes an original set of ornaments with the art of Rocio Davila Rojas. They are carved by hand from tutuma gourds featuring balsa wood and cotton trim. The natural gourds may vary slightly in shape and size.








Cotton ornaments, 'Peach Christmas Balloons' (set of 3)

Cotton ornaments, 'Peach Christmas Balloons' (set of 3)


Enjoying the view from the sky, celebrants shout Christmas greetings to those below. Margarita and Martha fashion a trio of novel and beautiful Christmas ornaments. The colorful peach hot air balloons feature straw baskets that carry tiny travelers in Andean dress. Because each ornament is individually crafted, colors may vary slightly.








Ornaments, 'Festive Huancavelica Couple' (pair)

Ornaments,

'Festive Huancavelica Couple'

(pair)

Mercedes Benavides celebrates the festive traditions of the Huancavelica region with an endearing pair of tree ornaments. Dressed in traditional costumes, they are expertly crafted by hand. The cholito (young man) and cholita (young woman) smile the radiant smile of the festive season.







Applique ornaments, 'Joyous Bells' (set of 6)

Applique ornaments, 'Joyous Bells' (set of 6)

Festive bells bring the Christmas spirit to the Andes in this charming set by Maria Ramos Sanchez. Children welcome the holiday season as they stroll along with their llamas across the Andean highland. Each scene is eloquently detailed in arpillera, where fabric cutouts are sewn into a wondrous collage over a cotton background. The bells feature a wool border ending in a loop, for hanging. Please note, Ramos uses different fabrics for the arpillera compositions, which can result in a slight difference in color.


Thailand






Cotton ornaments, 'Christmas Stockings' (set of 12)

Cotton ornaments,

'Christmas Stockings' (set of 12)

Embroidered by artisans from Thai Tribal Crafts, twelve bright stockings await Christmas Eve. The handmade ornaments are representative of the textile traditions of the Hmong people, who long ago immigrated to northern Thailand.







Cotton ornaments, 'Tribal Stars' (set of 12)

Cotton ornaments, 'Tribal Stars'

(set of 12)

Embroidered by artisans from Thai Tribal Crafts, stars and flowers appear in precise symmetry on twelve handmade ornaments. The work is representative of the textile traditions of the Hmong people, who long ago immigrated to northern Thailand.



Lots of people collect ornaments. And, how meaningful it can be to attach a person's story to something that is collectible! I haven't wrapped my gifts traditionally in years. Why spend all that money on wrapping paper and bows and ribbons that will end up in the garbage? Instead, I like to use newspaper or some other recycled paper or a scarf or fabric or anything else that can be used and top it off with a handmade ornament. Sure, some of these ornaments are going to be more expensive than the ones made by sweatshops (although most are really quite affordable!), so make the ornament your gift along with a loaf of banana bread or something tasty.

Whatever you decide to do in this lean year, do take a tour of NOVICA's wonderful catalog. You can enter through any of the above ornaments (you are not committing to buy if you click on the button...) and travel by type of item or country. Have fun!

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